I have quite a few standard patterns (if you missed the post on personalised patterns see it here) in my stash that I would like to adjust for my use. One potential method is a Small Bust Adjustment (or SBA). In the past I have adjusted from the standard ease (B cup or sometimes C cup) down to an A-cup. This time I did an Extreme SBA down to a zero cup : P

Here’s the bodice piece I was adjusting (bonus points for guessing the pattern!)

SBA steps

And here are the steps I followed:

Step 1: Draw lines through the darts to find the Apex. Draw a line from the Apex to the arm curve。
SBA steps

Step 2: Cut along the lines, being careful not to cut into the seam allowance on the arm
SBA steps

Step 3: Move the Apex in about an inch or so that the dart legs are matched, effectively removing the darts.

SBA steps

Step 4: Move the center waist line up to even the length. And you are done.
SBA steps

I also did a shoulder adjustment using an L-slash method on both the front and back bodice pieces. (I am pretty sure I picked this up from Fit for Everyday People).  So my final pieces looked like this:

Ex-SBA detail shots

So how did it go?? Well here are some muslin shots for your viewing pleasure.

SBA shoulder adjust

Pretty good on the front.. very flat.

SBA no shoulder adjust

A bit of pulling under the arms is evident from the back and the side view shows that a little more room is needed there.

SBA no shoulder adjust

My thoughts on using this method to adjust patterns are:

– The extreme SBA is effective at getting a good flat fit on the front.

– BUT  you do loose darts that may also be design details. In this case it would be my preference to keep the vertical darts, as the top has a matching skirt with matching darts, but on its own I would be perfectly happy with this adjustment.

Next week I continue my adventures with another method that also promises to help me with the shoulder issue!