I have quite a few standard patterns (if you missed the post on personalised patterns see it here) in my stash that I would like to adjust for my use. One potential method is a Small Bust Adjustment (or SBA). In the past I have adjusted from the standard ease (B cup or sometimes C cup) down to an A-cup. This time I did an Extreme SBA down to a zero cup : P
Here’s the bodice piece I was adjusting (bonus points for guessing the pattern!)
And here are the steps I followed:
Step 1: Draw lines through the darts to find the Apex. Draw a line from the Apex to the arm curve。
Step 2: Cut along the lines, being careful not to cut into the seam allowance on the arm
Step 3: Move the Apex in about an inch or so that the dart legs are matched, effectively removing the darts.
Step 4: Move the center waist line up to even the length. And you are done.
I also did a shoulder adjustment using an L-slash method on both the front and back bodice pieces. (I am pretty sure I picked this up from Fit for Everyday People). So my final pieces looked like this:
So how did it go?? Well here are some muslin shots for your viewing pleasure.
Pretty good on the front.. very flat.
A bit of pulling under the arms is evident from the back and the side view shows that a little more room is needed there.
My thoughts on using this method to adjust patterns are:
– The extreme SBA is effective at getting a good flat fit on the front.
– BUT you do loose darts that may also be design details. In this case it would be my preference to keep the vertical darts, as the top has a matching skirt with matching darts, but on its own I would be perfectly happy with this adjustment.
Next week I continue my adventures with another method that also promises to help me with the shoulder issue!